RAPID HEARTBEAT...Flambeau kayak trip means whitewater, white knuckles
By Dick Ellis
Reader Note: When reading any of Dick Ellis’s 1200 Wisconsin journeys taken over two decades as a syndicated columnist, be sure to check current regulations when planning the trip yourself. Contact Flambeau Sports Outfitters highlighted in this column that first appeared in syndication in 2004 at 715-339-2012 or www.flambeausports.com. For information on lodging, entertainment, dining and more outdoors in Price County connect with Price County Tourism and Director Kathy Reinhard at tourism@co.price.wi.us or 800-269-4505
Resting on the pristine waters of the Flambeau River’s south fork at Lugerville, a Price County quiet contrasted with the historical chaos painted by Dave Kelly of a time here before the Great Depression. On this July morning, the Flambeau moved slowly and only babbled something softly here and there. Paddles dipped into the river as Lori and I became acquainted with kayaks and contemplated the rapids we would soon meet downstream. And a mother with her young son watched a night crawler dangle in a hole beneath an old, county bridge.
A century ago, thousands of white pine cut to logs further north and sent to ride the Flambeau might have floated in a giant raft above the Lugerville dam upstream a stone’s throw from the bridge. Men in worn denim and flannel shirts would have struggled to move logs from the water to the village sawmill. And timber not sold at Lugerville would have been charged per log to pass through the dam sluice and continue the river journey, perhaps as far as Chippewa Falls.
Dave Kelly of Flambeau Sports Outfitters shoots through another series of rapids on the south fork of the Flambeau River last week in a Loon Kayak. Depending on personal preference, a river trip can last from two hours to a week, and offers isolation and wilderness, great whitewater for canoe, kayak or sport boat, and good fishing for smallmouth, musky, walleye and channel cats.
On the river, in the quiet of a July morning eight decades later, it wasn’t difficult to hear the voices of those ghosts working the river; to imagine the distant but shrill collision of another white pine meeting a circular logging blade in the mill; or even to smell the sawdust.
“They used to do those log drives down the river before the sawmill began to close down in 1929,” said Kelly, proprietor of Flambeau Sports Outfitters at Lugerville 10 miles northwest of Phillips. “There’s a huge, huge amount of history here, but not only on this river but on most rivers in Wisconsin. This used to be a town of 1000 people. Now it’s 35 people and 26 dogs.”
Under Kelly’s guidance, we would follow the logs historic journey downstream six miles in three Loon Kayaks. Kelly offers river trips on the north and south forks of the Flambeau or the Elk River in Old Town Sports boats, canoes, or Otter, Sand Piper, and Loon kayaks. Each trip can last from two hours to a week, depending solely on personal preference. Each journey also offers fishing, fabulous scenery in Wisconsin wilderness, and various degrees of the whitewater white-knuckler.
The Elk River, for example, between Grassy and Sioux Lakes, provides a great three mile, three hour whitewater trips in the spring. The north fork of the Flambeau might be ridden from the Turtle Dam near Mercer to Park Falls. And the south fork trip can include any piece of the approximate 65 miles from Round Lake between Minocqua and Fifield in the Chequamegon Forest to just above Ladysmith.
Kelly, who began his business 20 years ago with father, Matt, primarily to accommodate the river enthusiast, angler and grouse hunter, will personally guide the float trips, simply rent his boats, or ferry his clients literally anywhere they wish. “If I can do it,” he said, “I will.”
Our trip July 8 was initially scheduled for the Elk River in Old Town sport boats. During scouting forage the evening before, Kelly evaluated the water level as too low for the rugged crafts, and we adjusted to the south fork of the Flambeau and our introduction to kayaks.
“Everyone has their own preference, but kayaks are outselling canoes big time,” Kelly said. “Most fit on top of a car, and for the fisherman the kayak will go anywhere that bass machine with the 150 outboard will go. But you’re not going to take that bass boat everywhere a kayak can go. In the Gulf States kayaks are becoming very popular for fishing the estuaries.”
In addition to shooting the rapids and enjoying new turf, this kayak trip was also meant to dabble with the Flambeau’s smallmouth bass. Despite minimum time investment at that, we found success with fighting smallmouth in pools below the rapids. Each of the rivers offer good angling for sport fish, including the musky.
 |
 |
| Below one more series of rapids on the south fork of the Flambeau River, Dave Kelly takes time in his Loon Kayak to fish a deeper hole. The smallmouth was released. | Lori Ellis and Guide Dave Kelly begin to negotiate another series of rapids on the south fork of the Flambeau River last week. Isolation, beautiful wilderness, good fishing and thrilling rapids can all be found on the river trip with kayak, canoes or sport boats. |
“Fishing for smallmouth can be very good,” Kelly said. “There’s also musky, walleye, northern and channel cats. If you’re looking for action, you’ll find it. You never know what kind of wildlife you’re going to see around the next bend. What you rarely see are people.”
We would see only two people fishing above the first set of rapids on the Flambeau. In response to Lori’s inquiry of the danger of shooting rapids, Kelly had smiled and said, “Only on the “Widow Maker” and the Skull Cracker.” In reality we would negotiate the Flambeau’s beautiful rapids over the next four hours carrying names like Stonewall, Rock Ledge, and Davis.
The rapids were thrilling. Because we came prepared with the proper gear including life jackets, the Flambeau was not dangerous. We emerged no-worse for the wear of a tumble or two in the rapids, and exhilarated with a too-fleeting introduction to the Flambeau; the river that reflects much of Kelly’s entire life, and echoes the voices of historical Wisconsin.
“I am concerned with future development of the river,” he said. “I hope people use a little stewardship. The corridors of the river are great for wildlife. You take it and it’s not coming back. When I was a boy I was given a bike and given a rod and turned loose to swim and fish this river, or to find clams and catch crayfish. It was a great childhood. I want our children and our children’s children to experience the same thing.”
FLAMBEAU SPORTS OUTFITTERS...
Flambeau Sports Outfitters addresses the needs of both the river enthusiast and the Wisconsin hunter. Flambeau Sports rents canoes, sport boats or kayaks by the day or week, and will shuttle or personally guide groups on the north and south forks of the Flambeau River, and the Elk River.
A family business for 20 years, Flambeau Sports also provides guiding services for ruffed grouse, black bear or deer with bow, rifle, muzzleloader, or camera. Based in Price County, showcased as the finest grouse hunting region in the world, Flambeau Sports hunting specialty focuses on just that.
In the field with his father grouse hunting since he was seven, Dave Kelly says even during the low numbers years of the 10-year grouse population cycle, hunters will generally experience nine to 30 flushes per day.
“When you hunt somewhere forever, you know the land,” Kelly said. “A guide is not the magic bullet. But you increase your chances with a guide just because they know their own country so well.”
All guided hunts include lodging in the bunkhouse, (with hot showers and a refrigerator, cook stove, oven, wood heat and dog kennel), field lunch and transportation.
SAFETY FIRST
Dave Kelly’s first and foremost concern is safety when introducing clients to the rivers of Price County. Of no concern at all is that people will enjoy the pristine waters and north woods wilderness. That is a virtual guarantee.
“If people aren’t comfortable with any rapids, we either portage or rope the canoes front and back and walk them through the shallows at the river bank,” he said. “I have a guide book that makes the south fork sound dangerous, but it really isn’t unless the cold water in spring is high and rushing.”
“If people aren’t comfortable with any rapids, we either portage or rope the canoes front and back and walk them through the shallows at the river bank,” he said. “I have a guide book that makes the south fork sound dangerous, but it really isn’t unless the cold water in spring is high and rushing.”